Based on the Evonik-research and the natural role of LMW-HA in the body working as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule, this ultra-low molecular weight version is a controversial ingredient. below 50k, around 10k Da version: there is a Japanese version trade named Hyalo-Oligo that has only a 10k molecular weight and is claimed to penetrate the skin very well, have a unique touch and give deep and long-lasting moisturization.50k Da version: this is the size that is claimed to be able to absorb into the skin and plump up wrinkles, so it is used mainly as an "anti-aging ingredient".It is also claimed to boost the wound healing process and is especially helpful for sensitive skin types (acne, rosacea, inflammation-related skin diseases). 100-300 kDa version: apart from moisturizing, this size might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense.A sunscreen with BP-3 is definitely better than no sunscreen. However, if you find a formula that you love and contains BP-3, we do not think that you should throw it away. Overall, BP-3 is probably our least favorite sunscreen agent and we prefer sunscreens without it. It can be used in concentrations of up to 10% in the EU and up to 6% in the US. On the up side, sunscreens are pretty well regulated in several parts of the world, and BP-3 is considered " safe as used" and is an allowed sunscreen agent everywhere. ![]() If that was not enough, Wikipedia claims that BP-3 is nowadays the most common allergen found in sunscreens, and the always-trustworthy smartskincare writes that " have been shown in some studies to promote the generation of potentially harmful free radicals". In fact, a 2004 follow-up study to examine the estrogenic effect of sunscreens when used topically on the whole body found that "the endogenous levels of reproductive hormones were unaffected" (even though BP-3 could be detected both in plasma and urine, so its absorption is no doubt too good). ![]() Estrogenic activity was confirmed only in-vitro (in test tubes) and when taken orally by lab animals, and not when used topically as you would normally. Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CrosspolymerĪnother concern of BP-3 is that it shows some estrogenic activity, though it's probably not relevant when applied topically to the skin.
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